The wheel comes from Yell. It does what it was meant to do - spin fine , spin wool. This is quite different from modern commercial wheels. In my personal opinion it does better on wool than any other wheel I worked on abroad. It's a small wheel, does not take much space in the house. It works exceptionally well even after such a long journey (oh customs... what to say about those... they take a very long time...). These wheels spin only better whit time, it's the old way of things, they are made to do it. It is a production wheel. Shetland folk know their wool, their fine yarns and their wheels. Enough said. Here is the wheel. and a little of a test spin, not sure what the fleece is, it's just flicked by a comb locks.
Another thing. It's not a beginner wheel, one needs to know how to spin on one of these. It is meant to go at particular speed and it starts just doing the job very nicely.
Another look at warm shawl borders. How would I teach someone who is a beginner knitter a way of Orenburg lace. Better to say the mindset, the outlook. It is more about following the flow of the yarn and controlling the shape by a small pattern but rather powerful one.
Here comes bactus. It's a modern scarf, easy to make, and rather versatile wearable piece. It's all about drape. I made mine of 2 strands of lace yarn. And it comes to fingering-sock yarns. and here are so many of these at stores, and colors, and fibers... oh one can get into trouble shopping :)
So, bactus being modern piece is constructed using same principles as Orenburg warm shawl border. Never would recognize one looking at its mirror? and indeed it is a mirror. Orenburg warm shawl has everything to shape basicaly any kind of shawl out of larger than lace yarns. One should not force it into the shape, vise versa, one should follow the rhythm and the flow of the yarn. and things will fall into place naturally.
Не стандартный взгляд на кайму оренбургского теплого платка. Как можно научить начинающую вязальщицу принципам и основам пуховязания. Ту которая пряжу платочную не держала еще в руках. Вернее как научить мировоззрению и как научить следовать форме и чувствовать пряжу, идти с ней на не на перекор, не заставляя принать форму. Итак бактус. Довольно универсальное современное изделие, драпируется хорошо. связана из 2-х нитей такой де тлщины как бедут на платок. Это практически получается пряжа на варежки и носки. а такой в магазине и на базаре очень много и цвета и всякие разные волокна. Бактус связан с испрользованием точно тех же принципов по которым вяжется кайма теплого платка. Вы не узналии ее в зеркале, правда? И тем не менее это буквальное зеркало каймы. Те хе принцыпы. а как же форма? А форму делает тот же узо что придает форму кайме теплого платка, и он очень маленький, но очень сильный.
This is one of the orange-yellow gradients I start separating into pieces.
The yarn is somewhat bright and saturated.
White de-saturates such a yarn. after that there are decisions what way to de-saturate or to change the hue of the color for example into more blue
And what proportion to choose - equal or 20/2 (over 50% of white added)
I did equal and here is that yarn cut to elongate the gradient. in the beginning I cut in good amount of places, that's the way the ball went. Green one seem to be one of the older colorway's possibly, so I' 'squeezing' out of it every bit or the color alignment. I usually go with 2 sections of such an alignment and leave the inner part of the ball to float as it would/ this time I did go futher in the experiment/
Counting to 3 - one of the rules for Orenburg lace alignment. This illustrates the middle of the diamond alignment
this is how the knitting rig looks like. free-be.
peculiarity of the inner part of the yarn place graceful layout for this particular possibly decommissioned colorway
here is past the middle at the point where the inner layout of the diamond it tested for the lace accuracy.
this pattern aligns to "and One 2,3" whee and for yo, One for k2tog, 2,3 ar for knit stitches.
here the middle is. this is how honeycomb or 'korolki' work.
Orenburg Knitting: Knitting Gossamer Webs with Galina Khmeleva Video part one contains significant amount of general historic and cultural information that could use some improvements and considerable amount of marketing material, contains general instructions about continental knitting with thick yarns, no actual shawl knitting is shown in this part of the video, authentic shawls are.demonstrated in the background with some close up shots. Part 2 of the video shows 6x6 teeth sample shawl made of thick yarn on large size needles, after that follows Russian grafting without yarn, overview of grafting with yarn, some base patterns samples are shown already made, no pattern knitting demos, base patterns overview took a bit under 7 minutes in 3h,15 min of the total video material, then followed a dry blocking sample. No patterns samples are shown in gossamer yarn. 2 additional patterns are shown - nups and star made in thick yarn (for a sweater or thicker).
Let's begin the detailed review. I withdraw my comments on multiple mistakes I've spotted in the actual material to keep this post shorter.
"Today we will discuss about Orenburg knitting tradition, because Orenburg kintting tradition is part of my life. I've spended one third of my life to be sure 23 years to research to learn and to teach how to make them and how to take care of them because for many women in Orenurg region this is their whole life business or their activity."
"Orenburg region is far away from civilization, even if it's a big city with like 6 thousand in population and Orenburg region is a little bit smaller than size of France it's quite remote region. This is tight where Russia devide by Ural mountains on European part of Russian and Asia. Ural mountain comes from northern of Russia south of Russia and where is Orenburg region located. Orenburg region is quite low old city originated 1743 you can calculate how old is city. did people live there before? Of course they live. They found out the population of goat that were in wild it's good source of fiber what people start to use to create warm cozy and expensive item for their survival because winter is brutal. Believe me I have being there and I do not recommend you to go somewhere in February or in January because this is snow storm snow blizzard ice everywhere white white white and not so pleasant memory you will can bring from this trip. I recoment you to go in summer time. Growing season very short because people start plan plant all their vegetables after frost similar like everywhere but this will be end of May and frost can be already in Oktober snow on the ground.
Women in this Orenburg region they created their own very unique knitting style. They kick out everything what slow down their process to make money because this is was not a hobby not activity on their spare time this was strictly for survival reason not only to put shawl on their body to keep body warm but also to earn money."
This is not my English text. This is the actual text from the part 1 of the video as one would hear it there. it does illustrate quite accurately the overall language style. The presenter is speaking with exaggerated Russian accent for some reason. This video text sample somewhat leads me to wiki about Orenburg from which follows that Orenburg is not quite so far from the civilization; it is a megalopolis with over 500000 people population according to census and significant trade and industrial center with well over 300 years history. This "far away from civilization" city is a home to several large oil and energy companies (TNK, Gasprom to name a few, and Orenburg lace is one of the pet projects for the ladies of those oil-gas tycoons - on the side note) and a large transportation hub, has 4 universities and many colleges. To cut to the chase we are not talking about a tiny village on remote outskirts of Russia. High speed internet there is pretty normal thing among plenty other modern things.
It would be better for Interweave just put 'read that text' monitor and write the text. The rest of the dvd has very similar level of general information accuracy.
And the climate graph one can see just as well with record high and low on the referenced above wiki page.
Having that little bit said to set the tone about the region we are talking about. Not remote, quite modern infrastructure. Every region of Russia has remote villages, just like there is rural America. People live everywhere. When it comes to Orenburg I'm not quite sure why Galina would advise to "do not go there in winter, January-February". Everyone in the region knows that's the Orenburg down buying season. There is none of that fiber of shawl making quality available in summer, all sold out by February-March and pre-spoken even earlier before the beginning of the year. Galina suggests to buy pygora instead. Well if one goes there in summer they can buy combed from the goats by hand Volgograd down that exceeds quality of pygora and significantly cheaper there. The dvd has overall quite a lot of marketing (both direct and indirect) of upper scale yarns when it comes to the price of the yarns marketed by this video.
Overall content of the video targets beginning knitters. Cats are very cute. By 30 min in I wanted see knitting demonstrations and wanted to see a lace knitter working the gossamer webs lace.
Galina has quite interesting overview of what Orenburg shawl is and what Orenburg warm shawls are and how they have lace only around edges and that shawl with not 5 holes in teeth "never sleep overnight in Orenburg". Also that a gossamer needs to have not more than 4 elements "because if you put all 10 of them no one will understand what you wanted to show".
For some reason such things as method of construction (wide border,frame, center, all over lace, medallion, 5-circle) of this type of lace was overlooked. Olga Fedorova shawls in the background are exceptional, the video would greatly benefit if more details of that work were shown versus substitute yarns marketing. Or for example how do real lace makers work. And that style of knitting has not changed from older documentary
to these days if one would look at the Guinness World Record knitting in Orenburg videos. They do not look when they knit. The needles are 1.25-2mm with most common size 1.5mm, not larger size wooden needles Galina is using in the video. She shows 2mm needles she has collected, used large size ones. The knitting technique is also optimized for the lace. For some reason in both part 1 and part 2 of her video nothing like that is shown. Neither tactile aspect of the lace making was even mentioned anywhere in the Interweave's video.
On disk 1 after 45+ minutes of talking and yarn marketing we finally get to some knitting demonstration.
Russian knitting is called continental possible because Russian a yarn pickers not yarn throwers.
Everything regarding the content that is in that demo from 45 min all the way to the end of the disk 1 any knitter can see on youtube for free in Russian or English if they desire. Published years before for free archclif channel
And that's a little bit of technology, live video stream to Orenburg and we indeed were talking about it
by the end of disk 1 my colleagues in Russia got lost just I was about where the lace knitting part is in that video is. That has happen in aran thick yarn in disk 2, the sample 6x6 teeth shawl was shown, it counts for slightly more than 1h of video time, it was watched quite carefully and Orenburg lace makers did not recognize any of it at their own techniques. Well except of common knit, yarn over, 2 together stitches. Ekaterina Godovova does not recognize any of Galina's techniques as something Olga Fedorova has taught. She is successor of Olga Fedorova, took her place at Orenburg School of Arts when Olga has retired, , was Olga's student at Orenburg School of arts herself, was Olga's friend, she makes lace for many years, her work in is Orenburg museum. Neither her lace maker grandmother (makes lace to these days) has recognized any of Galina's techniques as applicable to Orenburg lace. That's what I was asked to pass as the video feedback. She has also commented on overall Galina's way of knitting and how her knitting hands work. You can compare that with how Orenibrg lace maker's hands work. Galina creates much movement and to much instability in her knitting work. That's by Orenburg lace measure.
When it comes to way Orenburg lace makers knit and how they teach, please see some of the documentary I've listed in this post. Whoever has bought Galina's video can compare them and her in the way how their hands work. Both slow speed (older documentary, lady teaching a child) and actual speed of knitting and the way it's done.
After 1h time mark follow base patterns. To 1h7min. About 7 min total overview. They are already made samples, about fingering weight yarn. No knitting demo is provided for them. No samples are shown in actual gossamer yarn. One looks like it's made in warm shawl (lace not gossamer) yarn.
And by the way, accordion is not difficult to knit and one does not need to check charts constantly.Orenburg lace making simply taught differently back home if compared to how Galina's dvd shows or presents it. I would say it is over complicated in her video quite a lot. Not sure why and why it needs to be made to look so complex like no one can do it. Children in Russia can do it.
1h7min-1h20min: Never seen by Galina anywhere outside of Orenburg method of grafting of corners has a name - Russian grafting without yarn. It is quite common thing. 1h7min of video time mark to next over 1h20 min is Russian grafting one can see free on youtube. Just search for "Russian grafting". Ravelry group Russian knitting technique also has this video listed on pages. That's how most of Russian graft. There is also grafting with yarn. And for gossamers that is what used by many Orenburg lace makers.
1h.20-1h.25 - grafting with yarn using k3tog. That method is used in Orenburg.
1:25-1:38 dry block demo followed by a bit more self marketing talking. No frame blocking is shown, no wet blocking.
1h.45 - demo of nups and star pattern. No one knows which way and where does the star pattern belong in Orenburg lace. Another very own Galina's perspective. nups exist on bazar shawl in in minimum amount on higher end shawls from some areas of Orenburg region. These are listed under "additional patterns" in the video.
What surprised me the most in this video is complete lack of actual gossamer lace making in the video, no tactile and visual references important for actual lace making and no knitting of the base patterns. She suggests to do them by the charts. This is not how Russian lace makers are taught. They are taught to track these pattern and their neighborhoods. Pattern tracking skill set was not mentioned anywhere in the dvd.
In general would I say this video teaches how to make Orenburg lace? Maybe I'm missing something, but I did not see gossamer web knitting in that dvd. I would ask Interweave to put actual real Orenburg lace maker on camera and make documentary at least if they want to show how Orenburg lace is made. In the end one would learn from the lace maker. That's the old way of things. It is not like they all are hiding and impossible to find. There are several waves of Russian immigration for goodness sake in America. Just find the lace maker and start filming. Trust me, you will be surprised how fluid and easy the actual skill set is. You need to film someone making that type of the lace and ask simple questions and act as a child who wants to learn. You will be amazed at the level of knowledge transfer and the willingness to teach if you show you want to learn not just make a quick $$ of it. That's the Russian way. No need to re-invent . After all , dear Interveawe, you put in the video title "Orenburg Knitting: Knitting Gossamer Webs". Just start filming exactly that. Meaning lace maker versus marketing, meaning thread versus aran yarn, meaning properly sized for the yarn needles. And just start filming. Things will fall in place like in any good documentary, they usually do.
I hope to see gossamer lace making in the video from Interweave some day. This video is great as general beginning knitter introduction the personal technique of the particular pattern designer. If the name would be "Knitting with Galina Khmeleva" that would match the content. It would show that this is her personal experience and her personal interpretation. It's great for beginners who are seeking some entertainment and some cultural context from some foreign and exotic far away place, they may even buy some new yarn and some new needles after that.
When a DVD has in the title "Orenburg Knitting: Knitting Gossamer Webs" it means you are using the particular famous regional lace technique to market your product. And using that name in the title would drive you plenty customers instantly. Thas is well known by many generations of the merchants - the power of Orenburg lace in marketing. For 300 years this name was driving customers to the merchants who were using it. These shawls earned name "Russian white gold", "Russian miracle". It is very particular method, yarns, techniques, tradition. This should not be forgotten among the marketing efforts. None of the video has a person knitting Orenburg gossamer webs. Which mean a person is teaching to work with 60/2 nm or finer yarns if you are trying to use a substitute yarn of some kind. Not aran an fingering at the thinnest. It means there is a person in the video teaching the particular set of base patterns, it would be very nice to have it longer than 7 min overview. The person would be treating the techniques developed in the region to work with these yarns accordingly and accurately. Famous names from that region should not be used for marketing purposes alone. Putting name Orenburg knitting in the tile is saying quite a lot. This name was hard earned by these shawl of exceptional quality of yarn and hand work, they did it centuries before Interweave company was established. It puts certain obligations on the marketing department that decided to use such a famous name. It does set certain expectations.
so here we were yesterday in the kitchen. Mama had a little of nice cold harvest reisling wine and some nice berries.. so basically after dinner desert. we have a chat about life, Obama and the debt and how Russian annalists think America is going to land in technical default in February... so basically typical Russian kitchen talk. I'm knitting and talking. Mama all the sudden wakes up out of the politics talk and goes
"what ARE you doing?"
'what am I doing?" (ok, that's translated from Russian, but you get the point).
"you are making THAT from green 5 rubles yarn" and she points at that stole chart of mine, 2 page holes based chart for the reference.
Tada. Ok, that is OLD Russian outlook. folk in their 60-80-th just do not think of higher end of Orenburg lace be made from anything except of Orenburg hands spun, and certainly not out of 5 rubles yarn. Ok, that was yarn place graceful by the way. Speaking of how much similar these 2 yarns are. I get it, she wants me to make that stole from white hand spun, because that's the proper way. That's the old school. I think I have to explain...
"Mama, it's a scientific experiment"
"Mama, have some more vine and berries :)"
" you are wasting your time with this, that's not the proper yarn for that, you should not be knitting such a shawl from that"
so, that's mama. the bottom line the chat was distracting for me enough to get couple more rows only and call it.
So, what am I doing now?
looks like ok, I'm making 2-nd row of strawberry, right after my lace set up row. right?
I'm knitting strawberry 2 rows at once.
the point is lace is made as usually along with how the life goes. in between.
If I would not catch that in the morning I'd shift my lace , caught that at 3-rd tooth, would have said oh man... сон в руку , ad would have fixed it at the end to hide .
I caught it, so I'm making 2 rows of strawberry at once and it is slow.
I'll make that stole white, proper way so :)))
After all, mana never is going to change. For her like for many others there is only one proper way - the hand spun yarn period. Yarn makes that lace. and she told me, "why are you even making this, you'll never sell that because it's green 5 rubles yarn". I'm not going to sell it :), it's an experiment.
But when it comes to spending time, I have to admit, she is right. I should not be doing it out of green yarn, I do not really have much time for that. But on the other hand...
What I'm doing is trying to figure out how to set up the hands for someone who is coming from yarns like that and wants to make a beaded shawl. What they struggle is the gauge. Their yarn does not promote tight knitting. for me yarn place graceful stabilized on 2mm needles for my speed. It's not optimum and I'm knitting it slower than my own hand spun. whoever is after the beaded shawl needs to drop eedle size twice, meaning to 1mm. and the thickness of the yarn trice+, meaning 3+ times finer just to begin on something like that. The width of such a stole would be in 130cm range top. My little green monster will hit close to 2m easily when blocked. will see how large will that be.
So, once I had a thing for gradient yarns and went shopping for these. Felt like it, mostly to see how these are spun and how that can be done, because I did not see a commercial yarn with long enough color changes in lace at the time. It turns out many shorter color changes exist in sock yarns, medium long once also exist, very long ones like I wanted - harder to find, but I found them. In my search I did refresh my 'old Russian' stuff and has discovered some new American yarn marketing ways and found some not quite expected connections and transformations.
I discovered very quickly that if I want gradient yarn that would be wool, all other fibers I'd have to spin or color. The first thing I found was LYS find: Daphne yarn. merino wool, medium gradient. I looked like for a smaller project that would be a nice yarn, on a budget too, $10 range. colorway 07 was to my liking. So that went to stash.
Next I looked for longer color changes... I went by culture, where that was in the folk crafts. Scandinavian and Baltic countries and their color works. Kauni or aade long 8/1 artistic yarn was a well known gradient yarn in Russia. I found that (power of internet). Its American equivalents would run me above $30 per skein, aade long did not break the bank and to this time I like its color changes the best. Several projects came out of it. I did elongate the gradient sections. Like here for example.
Looks nice in triangle as well. It's not the softest yarn and there are ways to soften it, but for the color, you know, they got me there.
After that I was looking for a bit more and almost immediately found yarn place graceful in 50gr and 100gr.
Thhat gradient is more challenging to cut and elongate, but in the end it works nicely in medium size objects, say 50cm long on the side crescents for 50gr balls of yarn. How to work with aade long and yarn place and hand spun gradient yarns went into Song of the Cranes pattern description.
I have several colors of yarn place graceful, just like I have in kauni yarn. And yarn place graceful made 'deja vu' appearance exactly like Treenway yarns did before surprisingly under the same re-branding label.
So here is one 100gr ball already cut and one uncut
teeth in here are rather large and 'lacey'.
The corners of my shawl are not turned with Galina's short rows. That method is not recognized in Orenburg as their method to be exact. And here is deja vu in orange-yellow colorway
How close one can get? re-labeled Treenway yarns match color to the notch just as well with Treenway silk yarns. Yarn place turned out much better price for me.
So my point here is that here I am making me my test project in the traditional technique like I always did from an 'approved' substitute yarn cause the label well, it's still on it, right, and the 'underwriter' has mentioned in her Orenburg knitting dvd that one would totally tear up corners of the shawl, make a major disaster and so on if they do not follow her technique. So here is the re-branded yarn, the second uncut green ball in the picture above with the lace teeth I'm making was from her show boot in fact, was not re-labeled that time so. I used it, but the lace disaster never happened. I never put extra teeth at the corners of the shawls on mine, never do any short rows, and whoever have seeing the dvd in Orenburg say they same - did not see that short row method before, do not recognize it, do not make it the same way.
So where the extra teeth would come from? I wonder. Thick aran yarn used in dvd - granted - that yarn has different properties compared to lace or gossamer yarns. On the other hand no one in Russian teaches to lake lace on those thick yarns, they behave to differently. Sweaters and rugs - 'yes', lace - that's a 'no'.
I turn my corners at the narrowest point, by the book if such a term can be used :), I do not do short rows in my Orenburg goat down handspun yarn shawls, never did.
So, here is my turning the bottom corners step by step in pictures: first of all I do not start it here like dvd suggests, at the widest point.
I do it here, at the narrowest
, then I do not bunch teeth ribbon in my hand 'all 27 of them' (teeth), I let the ribbon be and pick and knit every stitch, for all 57 of them in my case either from right to left (granny's method) or from left to right (traditional Orenburg gossamer method in my published patterns).
Do every stitch on the side to the bottom of it
pick up stitches from the bottom with my other needle like so
turn my work, knit to the end , finishing teeth pattern for my last tooth.
That easy and that simple. I do it like everyone else in Orenburg does it, no need to reinvent a bike for thin yarns, for nice not fragile yarns.
Pick the side stitches, pick the bottom stitches, turn the work around, knit to the end. Done
Here it is, all ready and we knit bottom up.
Yes it all sits on straight needles, I like it better this way, faster to knit for me.
It looks like so and all corners are turned. The famous warning, oh no, never do it other than short rows, you'l get that sock heel effect if you do it differently. I do not know, maybe I'm lucky or knit differently or tension yarn differently. The sock thin does not seem to happen to me. Just the same as it does not happen to Orenburg lace knitters. why does not it happen... I guess we just knit differently than Galina's students do who encounter that sock thing in their work.
When I make a wider object because yarn place graceful has a particular mirrored repeat of colors I stop just about the change of the color, always when my color is still a solid shade not a transitional shade of the gradient.
So where is old Russian refresher stuff? Gossamer knitting technique is old. And it turns out merino lace yarns have a Russian sister - 5 rubles yarn. yep, that one is from my late granny's stash
What is it many folk who were born in USSR know exactly. It was quite common yarn. There was plenty warm leggings made out of such yarn, nice and warm 'gamashi' we called them. And also warm winter undergarments. Hey, Orenshal factory makes those too. They are quite useful in the cold climate to keen once bottom warn and promote good heals in cold climates to keep the body warm.
And new marketing way for merino lace yarns is to up sell these yarns into upscale yarns. Winter undergarments yarn does not sound that glam, not much to glamorize about. And indeed that's is exactly like cheap USSR yarn, 5 rub :). USSR has quite nice textile industry. not all was poorly made there as some may think.
Will I tear the teeth at the corner like Galina's dvd warns? Well, never has happen before with this type of yarn, and never with hand spun. But where did extra 2 teeth come from?
Olga Fedorova did not make shawls like that, Orenburg shawl makers say so.
Olga was fond of honeycomb based patterns. And these are it's own thing when it comes to their lace alignment, it's not a 45 degrees lace like diamonds made of diagonals. I have a gray shawl with one of her signature wide borders in this post
So the pattern I'm making in this gradient experiment is actually a white stole or shawl. It can be black too. Looks like so.
It is geared to train knitter to get to the large shawl making (close to 60 and more teeth).
I did talk to Fedorova Valentina recently a she has mentioned something I've forgotten to think about. A lace misalignment misstate happens at times with honeycomb based patterns. Here one goes and knits without a pattern and sets up lace by the teeth aligning it to the top point (max width at 5-th hole or narrowest width at the 5-th hole) in the beginning of wide border making, and at the end, oh-oh we landed on the mid tooth at at's widest point and we are done with our lace. Oh-oh, not good, because making the tooth would lead to extra 9 rows of garter right after wide border before the top teeth. The leading diamond for the pattern like that aligns at 3-rd tooth not at 1-st side tooth. That's the thing about the honeycombs 4 way symmetry and how this lace 'counts'.
So, the shawl is made basically, but it has a bug in it, well happens. The bug gotta go, it needs some 'hide me' thing. Some would cut to the chase, make this tooth 'to stick out' at the corner using something similar to a short row, not exactly like Galina shows so. In the lace that mistake in the alignment that was propagated from the beginning of the lace is hidden now. What a knitter should have being doing with honeycomb's like that is to put set up row 2 stitches above the tooth point. See the picture below
If one starts strawberry a the middle point of the tooth they will land on the middle of the tooth at top right-left corners.
Someone who was making a shawl made a mistake and covered it up - extra tooth appeared instead of 9 extra rows between wide border and top teeth. If I'd mess up and shift my lace down like that and then fixed it adding extra toot at the top by the shawl corner, no one would be able to tell 57 teeth from 59 at the top unless they counted each one. Is it a reason to represent a possible quick bug fix as the regional technique according to the Galina's knitting dvd - well, you decide.